Hanging Guide

1. Tips on positioning your frame

Tools required: 

Pencil, tape measure, 
For hanging multiple frames in a grid/ montage: measure, brown paper (or any spare rolls of paper, such as wallpaper or wrapping paper), scissors, compass or tough needle point, blue or white tack.

Step 1

Choose where you want to hang your picture(s)


  • Avoid hanging in direct sunlight: the UV rays will damage the artwork. 
  • Avoid hanging above radiators or fireplaces: the heat may cause the materials to expand and contract, damaging the frame. 
  • Avoid damp rooms like bathrooms: moisture will damage the materials and the artwork. 

Step 2

The standard height galleries hang pictures is 156cm from the floor to the centre of the image, but you may need to adapt if your walls are out of the ordinary. 

Choose a wall that suits the size of your picture if you’re hanging one by itself. A small picture will look insignificant if hung solo on a large wall. A large picture hung on a small wall will look cramped and awkward.

Hanging multiple pictures looks great in a grid format, but make sure the gaps between are equal. A good way to test out before knocking holes in your wall is to place your pictures on brown or any large/ rolled paper, carefully outline the frames in pencil (avoid marking the frame with the pencil lead), and then cut the outline out, and blue-tack to your wall. Do this for each frame in the multiple picture hang, adjusting the layout until you are happy. 
Depending on which hanging method you choose (see later in this article), finish the process off by measuring on the frame where the hanging points will be (method 1 will require one fixing point that string will hang from, so make sure the string is taut as you find the point where the frame will hang from. Transfer the measurement to the paper plan for each frame, and you can use a point to pierce through the paper and into the wall to mark where each fixing will go. (You can try tapping nail-based fixings right through the paper and then pull the paper off, but this can snag the paper and leave annoying shreds stuck on the fixing. The frame will hide it, but it’s potentially a bother to get rid of if you change your mind about where you want to hang.)

Step 3

Apply fixings to your wall. Which fixing to use depends on what type of wall you have. Read the next section for guidance on fixings and hanging methods. 

2. Which type of wall do you have?

Solid Wall

Solid walls will be very hard, if you knock on the wall whilst moving your hand around it is unlikely that you will see any flex or hear any hollow areas or voids.

Typical characteristics

  • Very hard, solid feeling wall with no flexing
  • Dull sound when knocking, rarely with hollow sounding areas 

Dot and Dab Wall

The easiest method of identifying this type of wall is to tap on the wall whilst moving your hand around. You will hear that most of the wall sounds hollow and may even have a slight flex to it, however there will be hard, solid points dotted around. These are the areas that have adhesive “dabs” bonding the plasterboard to the solid wall behind, these would typically be placed in a grid pattern around 300-500mm apart.

Typical characteristics

  • A solid feeling wall with slight flex in certain areas
  • Generally hollow sound when knocking with solid/dull areas dotted around

Plasterboard Wall

Plasterboard walls are typically made from some sort of board material that is supported by a framework. They are almost always internal, non load bearing walls. Plaster board walls can have a timber or pressed steel framework. This will usually run vertically at regular intervals between 300 and 600mm with short horizontals between each. Plasterboard walls will almost always sound hollow when knocking on them and have some flex or movement in them.

Typical characteristics

  • A slight flex or movement to the wall when pushing on it
  • A hollow sound when knocking with slightly more solid areas in vertical lines

Whatever type of wall you have, beware of pipes and cables hiding under the surface – don’t drill through them! 

3. Hook hanging method

Your frame will be fitted with D-rings and picture cord, so that you can hang your framed print on a picture hook. 

Tools required: 

Picture hook, hammer, pencil, tape measure.

Hard wall picture hook

A picture hook like this can be used on any sort of wall: 

They come in three sizes, so please check your frame weight (this can be found in the product details) and ensure your hook will support it.  

Use a pencil to mark the spot you would like to place your frame. Ensure that the base of the hook – where the cord will hang from – is centred on the spot you have marked. Hold the hook in place, and use the hammer to gently tap the pins into the wall. 

To remove the hook, slide something strong and thin (e.g. a butter knife) behind the hook, and gently lever it out.

Hook size guide:

'Small' Hook - Approximately 22 mm

  • Plasterboard Capacity: 2.5 kg (2 hooks = 5 kg)

'Medium' Hook - Approximately 30 mm

  • Plasterboard Capacity: 4 kg (2 hooks = 8 kg) | Solid wall Capacity: 5 kg (2 hooks = 10 kg)

'Large' Hook - Approximately 40 mm

  • Plasterboard Capacity: 5 kg (2 hooks = 10 kg) | Solid wall Capacity: 10 kg (2 hooks = 20 kg)

Traditional Picture Hook

A picture hook like this should only be used on plasterboard walls, or the hollow sections of dot and dab walls.

We recommend using the double pin version for all our frame sizes for extra security. It is also good to look for picture hooks with ‘hardened pins’ as they tend to be of better quality and won’t bend.

Use a pencil to mark the spot you would like to place your frame. Ensure that the base of the hook – where the cord will hang from – is centred on the spot you have marked. Then, holding the hook in position, feed one of the pins through the set of holes on one side, ensuring it is lined up through both. Then use a hammer to gently tap the pin through the holes, and into the wall. Repeat with the second set of holes.

A large double hook is suitable for hanging our small and medium frames, but for large frames we strongly recommend that you use Hanging Method 2.

4. Screw hanging method

If you do have a drill, or access to one, the best way to hang our pieces is by resting the upper section of the sub-frame on two screws. The subframe method, used by most art galleries, enables the frame to sit completely flat against the wall, which always looks better! 

Tools required:

Drill, which drill bit?, universal rawl plugs and screws tape measure, spirit level (if using 2 screws).